My Danish great-grandmother used to make this soup for my mother, and my mother used to make it for me. Last week, when Jacob was staying with me, he felt sick, and so I had to call my grandmother, who knew my great-grandmothers recipe, and told me how to make it over the phone, and so now I am sharing it with you.
This soup is called Bulla Soup, and I don’t know exactly how to describe it to you, but it’s like dumplings. Really rich, floury, wonderful, boiled dumplings.
November is the time for soup.
In New York, when I was very hungry, I would go to this crazy dumpling place where you could get eight fried pork dumplings for three dollars, and I would walk and eat all the dumplings just dripping with soy sauce, and I felt so young and so free and so good.
It’s food like that, that makes me feel the richness and glory of the world.
Bulla are not pork dumplings, you have to sit down and eat them in a soup, with a spoon. You do not get the romance of walking through grimy streets alone, while taxi cabs howl at you when you cross the street before the little flashing hand signals you can go. (I was always crossing streets at the exact wrong time.)
But bulla are a quick thing to make. Very simple, and satisfying.
Here is how to do it:
First, you heat some broth, such as chicken broth. Make sure it just about boiling.
Then in a separate pot, heat a cup of water to a rolling boil, add 1/2 cup butter.
You heat these together, and then, all at once, stir in 1 cup of flour. Stir rigorously over the heat, until the mixture forms into a ball. Remove from heat. Then, thoroughly beat into the flour/water mixture, four eggs, one at a time.
Next, take a spoon, and grab a rounded scoop of the mixture, gently lower it into the boiling chicken broth.
And then you wait for the bulla to rise to the top.
And when it has risen to the top, you know it is finished.
The simplicity of good food, occasionally speaks for itself.
So I'm not going to say anything beyond, "These really do it for me."
I hope you’re so well.
Talk soon.
I love love love you.
XOXO
m
